Iguazú Falls Argentina: Devil's Throat, Trails & Wildlife

The plan was to have an early breakfast before catching our pre-arranged taxi to the falls, hopefully arriving in time for the first train to Devil's Throat. Everything we had read suggested this should be our first stop, as it quickly becomes the busiest part of the park later in the day.

From the visitor centre, we boarded the ecological train for the journey to Devil's Throat Station, a ride of around 7 km through the rainforest. On arrival, a further 1.1 km of flat, accessible boardwalk stretches across the upper Iguazú River towards the falls. Rather than walking through dense forest, the elevated walkway crosses a maze of rocky islands, channels and smaller cascades, offering tantalising glimpses of the river gathering pace as it flows towards the edge. The closer we came, the louder the roar became, building a real sense of anticipation before the falls finally revealed themselves.

As we drew closer, the roar of the falls became deafening and the air grew steadily wetter with every step. By the time we reached the viewing platform, we were being continually soaked by the mist, while taking photographs became a constant battle, with water droplets covering the lens almost as soon as it had been wiped clean. Nothing quite prepares you for the sheer power of the water. Standing only a few metres from the edge, it was impossible not to be overwhelmed by the noise, the swirling mist and the immense scale of the falls. By the time we left, we were absolutely drenched and our cameras had endured countless lens wipes, but thankfully both emerged none the worse for wear.

The return walk proved to be just as rewarding. Without the anticipation of reaching Devil's Throat, we found ourselves paying much more attention to our surroundings and soon spotted an assortment of colourful birdlife along the boardwalk and in the surrounding vegetation. It was a welcome reminder that Iguazú National Park is every bit as much about its wildlife as it is about its spectacular waterfalls.

On the return journey, we paused at a plaque commemorating Guardaparque Bernabé Méndez, whose dedication to protecting Iguazú National Park ultimately cost him his life. In 1968, he was fatally shot by poachers while carrying out a routine patrol in the park. Today, a bridge and one of the falls bear his name, serving as a lasting reminder of the courage and commitment of those who work to protect this remarkable natural environment.

By now the park was noticeably busier, so we decided it was the perfect time to take a break and find somewhere to eat. Lunch also gave me another opportunity to photograph some of the park's wildlife, with birds and butterflies never seeming to be far away. Refreshed and with the busiest part of the morning behind us, our plan for the afternoon was simply to wander the remaining trails and viewpoints, taking our time to enjoy everything the park had to offer.

Although they often appear tame, South American Coatis are wild animals and can become aggressive if they associate people with food. Throughout Iguazú National Park, visitors are reminded not to feed them, as this behaviour increases the risk of bites, alters their natural foraging habits, and can ultimately harm the animals themselves. On numerous occasions we witnessed them trying to break into peoples ruck sacks!

The remainder of the afternoon was spent exploring the park's extensive network of trails and boardwalks. Dozens of waterfalls, ranging from small cascades to thundering torrents, could be viewed from a succession of well-positioned viewing platforms. Each bend in the path seemed to reveal another spectacular vista, making it impossible to resist stopping every few minutes to take in the scenery—or capture yet another photograph. Although many of the viewpoints overlooked the same waterfall system, each offered a unique perspective and was well worth the walk.

The appearance of Iguazú Falls changes dramatically throughout the year as river levels rise and fall with seasonal rainfall. During periods of high water, usually following heavy rains, the falls become an immense wall of churning brown water carrying sediment downstream. At lower river levels, more individual waterfalls, rocky outcrops and islands become visible, and the water often takes on a beautiful crystal-clear, emerald-green colour. We visited at the beginning of March and were fortunate to experience the best of both worlds: there was still plenty of water flowing over the falls, yet the river remained remarkably clear, creating some of the most vibrant colours we have ever seen.

The sheer scale of Iguazú Falls is staggering, ranging from delicate, ethereal cascades to immense walls of water that plunge into the gorge below.

Stretching in a great horseshoe across the border between Argentina and Brazil, Iguazú Falls is a spectacular mosaic of waterfalls rather than a single cascade.

By around 3:00 pm, we felt we had seen everything we wanted to and began the walk back to the park entrance. Our pre-arranged taxi was waiting to take us back to Puerto Iguazú, where we collected our luggage before continuing across the border into Brazil. The next stage of our adventure would take us to the beautiful Belmond Hotel das Cataratas, the only hotel located within Iguaçu National Park. We felt incredibly fortunate to be able to stay there, and it proved to be the perfect base for exploring the Brazilian side of the falls the following morning.