Laguna de los Tres Hike to Fitz Roy in El Chaltén, Patagonia

Before travelling to Patagonia, I knew I wanted to attempt at least one long mountain walk on my own. My Wife did not want to take on a walk of this length, so Laguna de los Tres quickly became the obvious choice, as it meant we could start the day together before splitting onto different routes. At around 24–26 km as a round trip, it was far beyond anything I had attempted on foot for more than 35 years, but the draw of Fitz Roy was impossible to ignore. Its jagged granite towers are iconic among climbers and mountaineers, and for me the hike felt like the defining long day walk of the trip, even above the options in Torres del Paine.

Laguna de los Tres

Few places in Patagonia capture the imagination quite like Laguna de los Tres. After a challenging climb through forests and over glacial moraine, the trail finally reveals an extraordinary view of Mount Fitz Roy rising almost vertically above the turquoise waters and broken ice below.

As hikes go, it is a serious day out: around 24 km in length, with roughly 1,100 metres of ascent. The climbing is concentrated in two main sections: an initial climb of around 3 km up to the plateau, followed by a brutal final kilometre where the path gains around 400 metres on its way to the viewpoint.

Photo Diary

We had decided the previous day that, if the weather was good, we would make an early start. We planned to walk together for the first hour or so before splitting near the route options: I would continue up to Laguna de los Tres, while my wife aimed for Mirador Fitz Roy and Laguna Capri.

Early morning light catching the granite towers of Fitz Roy above El Chaltén during the start of the Laguna de los Tres hike. — First light on Fitz Roy

Arriving at the trailhead, we needed to show the park passes we had bought before travelling to Patagonia. We wanted an early start both because the route was long and because we hoped to stay ahead of the crowds. Many day trippers arrive from El Calafate and walk the shorter route to Laguna Capri.

Information board at the Sendero Fitz Roy trailhead in El Chaltén showing the route to Laguna de los Tres, distance, duration and safety advice. — Fitz Roy trailhead route board

The first part of the walk climbs steadily above the river valley, with wide views back across the landscape. The path is quite steep at first, but the gradient is manageable if taken at a steady pace. Eventually it begins to wind up through the forest towards Laguna Capri and Mirador Fitz Roy.

Morning sun breaking over the valley above Río de las Vueltas on the early climb of the Fitz Roy trail near El Chaltén. — Morning sun above Río de las Vueltas

After a short while you reach the first viewpoint, Mirador Río de las Vueltas, beyond which the trail continues into the forest.

View from Mirador Río de las Vueltas over the winding river valley and mountains near El Chaltén on the Fitz Roy trail. — Río de las Vueltas valley viewpoint

Path winding through lenga forest on the Fitz Roy trail towards Laguna Capri and Laguna de los Tres near El Chaltén.

Through the lenga forest

As the path climbs higher, the steepness gradually eases and the trail reaches a broad plateau, with views of the Fitz Roy massif in the distance.

View of the Fitz Roy massif from Mirador Fitz Roy, with rocky foreground and lenga woodland on the trail from El Chaltén. — Fitz Roy from Mirador Fitz Roy

Arriving at Mirador Fitz Roy gives you the chance to rest briefly and take in one of the classic views of the walk.

Information board at Mirador Fitz Roy identifying the peaks of the Fitz Roy massif, including Cerro Fitz Roy, Aguja Poincenot and surrounding summits. — Peaks named at Mirador Fitz Roy

Close view of the granite towers of Fitz Roy from Mirador Fitz Roy, with glaciers and lenticular clouds above the Patagonian mountains. — Fitz Roy from Mirador Fitz Roy

With the first part of the hike complete, the route continues across the plateau towards Campamento Poincenot. Many walkers do Laguna de los Tres over two days, hiking to the campsite on the first day before climbing to the viewpoint early the next morning and returning to El Chaltén. Doing it in a single day is tough, but it does avoid the need to carry camping gear.

View across the open plateau on the Fitz Roy trail towards Glaciar Piedras Blancas, with a small lake, lenga woodland and mountains near El Chaltén.

Across the plateau to Glaciar Piedras Blancas

Walkers crossing narrow wooden boardwalks over marshy wetland on the Fitz Roy trail, with the mountains above El Chaltén in the background. — Boardwalks across the wetland plateau

Stream, small pools and wetland vegetation below the Fitz Roy massif on the plateau section of the Laguna de los Tres hike. — Streams and wetlands below Fitz Roy

The campsite was very busy, with opportunistic Chimango Caracaras wandering around the ground looking for discarded food. Most people appeared to be packing up after having already climbed to the viewpoint for sunrise.

Chimango Caracara walking on the ground at Campamento Poincenot on the Fitz Roy trail in Patagonia.

Chimango Caracara at Campamento Poincenot

Wildlife infoChimango caracaraDaptrius chimangoLeast Concern

Class: Aves
Order: Falconiformes
Family: Falconidae
Conservation status: Least Concern

The Chimango caracara is one of the most common birds of prey in southern South America. An opportunistic hunter and scavenger, it is frequently seen around coastlines, grasslands and settlements. Despite its modest size, it is highly adaptable and often feeds on insects, carrion and small animals.

Read more on Wikipedia

Shortly after leaving the campsite, the trail crosses Puente Río Blanco before reaching a small shelter and toilets. This marks the start of the infamous final kilometre to the viewpoint. It should not be underestimated.

Wooden Puente Río Blanco shortly after Campamento Poincenot on the trail to Laguna de los Tres in Patagonia. — Crossing Puente Río Blanco

A large warning board makes it clear how tough the next section is. The final kilometre is a relentless climb up a loose, rocky slope, gaining around 400 metres in height. Even with a good level of fitness from years of cycling, I still found it hard going.

Warning sign before the final climb to Laguna de los Tres, advising that the route is difficult, steep and requires good physical condition. — Warning sign before the final climb

Wooden Senda Fitz Roy sign showing kilometre 9 of 10 on the trail to Laguna de los Tres near El Chaltén. — Nine kilometres into the Fitz Roy trail

View back down the loose scree slope on the final climb to Laguna de los Tres, with the Río Blanco valley and forest below. — Looking back down the final climb

View back down the Laguna de los Tres trail towards Laguna Capri, with the rocky final climb in the foreground and Patagonian hills beyond. — Looking back towards Laguna Capri

Hikers approaching the final ridge below the granite towers of Fitz Roy near Laguna de los Tres in Patagonia. — Approaching the final ridge below Fitz Roy

After a few false summits, you finally arrive at the ridge above Laguna de los Tres. The viewpoint was very busy, but there was still plenty of space to sit, eat lunch and take in the view. After a while I wandered down towards the lakeside.

Wide view of Fitz Roy, surrounding granite spires and glaciers rising above Laguna de los Tres in Patagonia.

Fitz Roy above Laguna de los Tres

Laguna de los Tres below the granite towers and glaciers of Fitz Roy, with dark mountain slopes framing the turquoise lake in Patagonia. — Laguna de los Tres below Fitz Roy

Ian standing beside Laguna de los Tres with Fitz Roy, glaciers and granite spires rising behind the turquoise lake in Patagonia. — Reaching Laguna de los Tres

Reflection of the Fitz Roy granite towers and clouds in the turquoise water of Laguna de los Tres in Patagonia. — Fitz Roy reflected in Laguna de los Tres

Panoramic view of Laguna de los Tres with Fitz Roy, surrounding granite towers and glaciers reflected in the turquoise water. — Panorama of Laguna de los Tres and Fitz Roy

After spending around an hour at the viewpoint, I started the descent back towards Laguna Capri. By this point the trail was very busy, with a steady stream of people coming up the final kilometre. In places the path is narrow, which makes a quick descent difficult.

View of Fitz Roy rising behind Laguna Capri on the descent from Laguna de los Tres near El Chaltén.

Fitz Roy from Laguna Capri

Around the lakeshore we also saw Southern Crested Caracaras, which we came to know as “Patagonian chickens”, searching for scraps among the people resting by the water.

Southern Crested Caracara standing on the lakeshore near Laguna Capri during the return from the Laguna de los Tres hike.

Southern Crested Caracara on the lakeshore

Wildlife infoSouthern Crested CaracaraCaracara plancusLeast Concern

Class: Aves
Order: Falconiformes
Family: Falconidae
Conservation status: Least Concern

The Southern Crested Caracara is a large, ground-foraging falcon found across much of South America, including Patagonia. Easily recognised by its black cap, pale neck, barred chest, orange facial skin and yellow legs, it is an adaptable scavenger and opportunistic hunter often seen walking boldly through open ground, forest edges, roadsides and coastal areas. Although related to falcons, its behaviour is more crow-like, feeding on carrion, insects, eggs, small animals and discarded food.