Hanoi | Old Quarter, Temple of Literature & Train Street

There were a few places we particularly wanted to see, but much of the day was about exploring on foot and getting our first proper feel for Hanoi. What struck me immediately was the seemingly endless stream of mopeds flowing through the streets — impressive at the time, although still nothing compared with what we would later encounter in Ho Chi Minh City.

A Full Day Exploring Hanoi

Hoàn Kiếm Lake and Old Quarter

We had only a couple of definite objectives for the day: to visit the Temple of Literature and, if possible, catch a train passing through Train Street. There was conflicting information online about whether tourists could still walk along the tracks, so we weren’t quite sure what to expect. We began by heading north from Hoàn Kiếm Lake into the Old Quarter.

The Turtle Tower at Hoàn Kiếm Lake surrounded by greenery, with modern buildings visible in the background. — The Turtle Tower stands on an island in Hoàn Kiếm Lake, a significant landmark in Hanoi.

A historic yellow building in Hanoi's Old Quarter, with near by tree adorned with yellow lantern.

A woman pushing a bicycle loaded with market goods down a quiet Hanoi street, surrounded by local shops and motorcycles.

Mimosa Silk Shop, a unique outlet in Hanoi, showcases vibrant silk garments and local craftsmanship amidst colourful lanterns and traditional decor.

A scene from the Old Quarter of Hanoi showing a man seated at a table using his phone while a woman stands nearby on the street.

View of Hoàn Kiếm Lake featuring Turtle Tower surrounded by greenery and city buildings in the background. — Turtle Tower stands in the centre of Hoàn Kiếm Lake, a prominent landmark in Hanoi.

The Temple of Literature – Imperial Academy

After exploring the Old Quarter, we set off on foot towards the Temple of Literature. On the map it had seemed a reasonable walk, but it turned out to be quite a bit further than we expected. In hindsight, taking a taxi might have been the easier option, although walking did give us a chance to see more of Hanoi away from the main sights.

Stone stelae beneath traditional wooden pavilions at the Temple of Literature in Hanoi, Vietnam. — The Temple of Literature features stone stelae that honour past scholars, encased in traditional wooden pavilions.

Visitors at the Temple of Literature in Hanoi, showcasing traditional architecture near a serene pond surrounded by lush greenery.

A couple poses in traditional attire with a white parasol at the Temple of Literature in Hanoi, surrounded by greenery.

Stone steles at the Temple of Literature in Hanoi, symbolising past scholars and education.

A woman in traditional Vietnamese attire stands gracefully at the Temple of Literature in Hanoi, holding a fan against a backdrop of lush greenery and ancient brick walls.

Group of students in traditional attire pose at the Temple of Literature with a serene pond and trees in the background. — Students dressed in traditional robes gather at the Temple of Literature, an iconic site in Hanoi.

Interior view of the Temple of Literature featuring ornate statues and traditional offerings. — Statues and offerings inside the Temple of Literature, a historical site in Hanoi.

Train Street

The published timetable suggested there were no trains due while we were there, so we had more or less resigned ourselves to missing one. Then word began to spread that an unscheduled train might be coming through in about half an hour. We decided to wait, spending the time over a light lunch in one of the trackside cafés.

Train passing through Hanoi Train Street between cafés, homes and trackside seating.

A cyclist wearing a conical hat rides across train tracks in Hanoi, amidst a busy street scene filled with vehicles and shops.

Exterior view of Hanoi Railway Station featuring its distinctive architecture with red flags adorning the front.

View of Bay Mau Lake with a picturesque pavilion and city skyline reflecting in the water, surrounded by lush greenery — Bảy Mẫu Lake, passed on our walk back towards the centre of Hanoi.

After seeing the train, we began the longer walk back towards the hotel, passing Bảy Mẫu Lake on the way. By this point we were both pretty exhausted, so rather than trying to squeeze anything else into the afternoon, we decided to head back and save some energy for the evening. The walk around the lake made for a quieter end to the day before returning to the hotel.

Hanoi After Dark

By the evening we had pretty much recovered from the jet lag and headed back out with more energy than the night before. Around the Old Quarter and the pedestrianised roads beside Hoàn Kiếm Lake, there seemed to be music everywhere, with one open-air performance after another drawing small crowds.

One small encounter from that evening has always stuck with me. While we were sitting by the lakeside simply watching the world go by, a teenage girl and her younger brother came over and asked if they could practise their English with us. We chatted for a while before they headed off again. It reinforced just how friendly and welcoming people in Hanoi had been throughout our time there.

View of Hanoi's historic turtle tower illuminated at night with reflections on the water, framed by overhanging tree branches. — The iconic turtle tower in Hanoi stands illuminated by night, reflecting in the still waters of the lake.

Illuminated Huc Bridge reflecting in Hoan Kiem Lake, creating a vibrant scene in Hanoi at night. — The Huc Bridge, glowing in shades of red, stands out against the serene waters of Hoan Kiem Lake.

Colourful lanterns hanging from trees in Hanoi at night, illuminating the street below with a warm glow. — Colourful lanterns adorn the trees, creating a vibrant atmosphere in Hanoi's night scene.

Traditional performers in Hanoi displaying vibrant attire during a night cultural event, with illuminated surroundings.

Colourful lanterns and fairy lights adorn a tree outside restaurants in Hanoi at night, showcasing the vibrant nightlife and atmosphere of the city.

Traditional Vietnamese lanterns illuminating the historic architecture of Hanoi at night, showcasing intricate designs and warm lighting.

A woman in traditional attire playing a string instrument during a music performance in Hanoi at night.

A lively Y-Fest concert performance in Hanoi, featuring a singer in a red dress and musicians in white suits, illuminated by a vibrant stage backdrop. — The Y-Fest concert showcases a dynamic performance with a singer and a full band, attracting a lively crowd.

A vibrant street performance in Hanoi at night, featuring musicians dressed in traditional attire playing various instruments. — A group of musicians perform on a Hanoi street at night, showcasing traditional Vietnamese music.